{"title":"Ungaro","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cb\u003eEmanuel Ungaro\u003c\/b\u003e (13 February 1933 – 21 December 2019) was a French fashion designer who founded the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fashion_house\" class=\"mw-redirect\" title=\"Fashion house\"\u003efashion house\u003c\/a\u003e called the House of Emanuel Ungaro in 1965.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-Grdn_2-0\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan class=\"mw-headline\" id=\"Early_life\"\u003eEarly life\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUngaro's Italian father fled to France from \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Francavilla_Fontana\" title=\"Francavilla Fontana\"\u003eFrancavilla Fontana\u003c\/a\u003e of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Brindisi\" title=\"Brindisi\"\u003eBrindisi\u003c\/a\u003e province because of the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fascism\" title=\"Fascism\"\u003efascist \u003c\/a\u003edictatorship in \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Italy\" title=\"Italy\"\u003eItaly\u003c\/a\u003e. Ungaro's father was a tailor and he gave his son a sewing machine when he was young.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-Vogue_1-2\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan class=\"mw-headline\" id=\"The_House_of_Emanuel_Ungaro\"\u003eThe House of Emanuel Ungaro\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt the age of 22, Ungaro moved to Paris. Three years later he began designing for the House of \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Crist%C3%B3bal_Balenciaga\" title=\"Cristóbal Balenciaga\"\u003eCristóbal Balenciaga\u003c\/a\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-Grdn_2-1\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e for three years before quitting to work for \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Andr%C3%A9_Courr%C3%A8ges\" title=\"André Courrèges\"\u003eCourrèges\u003c\/a\u003e. Four years later, in 1965 with the assistance of Swiss artist Sonja Knapp and Elena Bruna Fassio, Ungaro opened his own fashion house in Paris.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-3\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDuring the mid- to late 1960s, Ungaro was known as one of the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Space_Age#Arts_and_architecture\" title=\"Space Age\"\u003eSpace Age\u003c\/a\u003e designers, along with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Andre_Courr%C3%A8ges\" class=\"mw-redirect\" title=\"Andre Courrèges\"\u003eAndre Courrèges\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Pierre_Cardin\" title=\"Pierre Cardin\"\u003ePierre Cardin\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Paco_Rabanne\" title=\"Paco Rabanne\"\u003ePaco Rabanne\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Rudi_Gernreich\" title=\"Rudi Gernreich\"\u003eRudi Gernreich\u003c\/a\u003e, Jean-Marie Armand,\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-4\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Diana_Dew\" title=\"Diana Dew\"\u003eDiana Dew\u003c\/a\u003e, creating ultra-modern, futuristic clothing of stark simplicity consisting of flaring, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Miniskirt#1960s\" title=\"Miniskirt\"\u003emini-length\u003c\/a\u003e garments\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-5\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-6\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e of geometric shape in welt-seamed \u003csup id=\"cite_ref-7\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003edouble-faced wools, synthetics, plastics, and metals worn with high boots, helmets, visors, and chrome and plastic jewelry.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-8\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-9\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-10\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e His designs were said to be strongly influenced by former employer \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Andre_Courr%C3%A8ges\" class=\"mw-redirect\" title=\"Andre Courrèges\"\u003eCourrèges\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-11\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-12\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-13\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHis womenswear designs of the 1970s were noted for their exuberant mixing of colorful prints. He helped instigate the decade's characteristic layered look in 1971\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-20\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e before settling in to the voluminous, layered, peasant-based styles known as the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/1970s_in_fashion#The_Big_Look_or_Soft_Look\" title=\"1970s in fashion\"\u003eBig Look or Soft Look\u003c\/a\u003e that dominated high fashion from 1974 to 1978.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-21\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-22\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-23\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-24\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-25\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e Ungaro's print mixtures fit well into the period's multi-layer esthetic.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-26\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e He didn't adopt the big \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Shoulder_pads_(fashion)#Fall_1978\" class=\"mw-redirect\" title=\"Shoulder pads (fashion)\"\u003eFall 1978\u003c\/a\u003e change to \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/1970s_in_fashion#Shoulder_Pads\" title=\"1970s in fashion\"\u003ebig shoulders\u003c\/a\u003e and narrow skirts\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-27\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e until 1979,\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-28\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-29\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e but during the 1980s he would reach a pinnacle of success and influence with his versions of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the late 1970s, fashion journalist \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Michael_Roberts_(fashion_journalist)\" title=\"Michael Roberts (fashion journalist)\"\u003eMichael Roberts\u003c\/a\u003e, when opening a Sunday column in \u003ci\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/The_Times\" title=\"The Times\"\u003eThe Times\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e, said \"Emanuel Ungaro has a great charm. He wears it around his neck.\"\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-30\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUngaro entered perhaps his most influential period in the 1980s, as he interpreted the era's aggressive, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Shoulder_pads_(fashion)#1980s\" class=\"mw-redirect\" title=\"Shoulder pads (fashion)\"\u003ebroad-shouldered\u003c\/a\u003e women's silhouette\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-31\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-32\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-33\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e with Edwardian-style\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-34\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-35\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e shirring, ruching, draping,\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-36\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-37\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e and his trademark eye-catching prints\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-38\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e to create a voluptuous, very feminine, even coquettish look\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-39\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e that was highly popular with the public.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-40\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-41\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-42\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-43\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUngaro launched his first menswear collection, Ungaro Uomo, in 1973, and his first \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Perfume\" title=\"Perfume\"\u003eperfume\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ci\u003eDiva\u003c\/i\u003e, 10 years later in 1983. Ungaro was a participant in \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/The_Battle_of_Versailles_Fashion_Show\" title=\"The Battle of Versailles Fashion Show\"\u003eThe Battle of Versailles Fashion Show\u003c\/a\u003e held on 28 November 1973. Later followed the perfumes \u003ci\u003eSenso\u003c\/i\u003e (1987), \u003ci\u003eUngaro\u003c\/i\u003e (1991) and \u003ci\u003eEmanuel Ungaro For Men\u003c\/i\u003e (1991).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy 1989, Ungaro was producing two haute couture collections a year, two women's ready-to-wear (labelled \"Parallèle\", begun in 1971), as well as lower-priced labels \"Ter\" (1988 to 1991) and \"Solo Donna\".\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-44\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-:2_45-0\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e That year a scholarship was funded in his name at the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Art_Institute_of_Chicago\" title=\"Art Institute of Chicago\"\u003eSchool of the Art Institute of Chicago\u003c\/a\u003e, endowed by \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Marshall_Field%27s\" title=\"Marshall Field's\"\u003eMarshall Field's\u003c\/a\u003e in recognitiion of his legacy as a designer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMenswear lines included \"Classics by Ungaro\" and \"Ungaro pour l'Homme Paris\". \u003csup id=\"cite_ref-:2_45-1\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003eLines not designed by Ungaro himself included \"Emanuel by Emanuel Ungaro\", a women's line introduced specifically for the US market in 1991, \"Emanuel Petite\" in 1994, and \"Ungaro Woman\", a plus-size line added in 1996.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-46\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-:2_45-2\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn 1996, he formed a partnership with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Salvatore_Ferragamo\" title=\"Salvatore Ferragamo\"\u003eSalvatore Ferragamo\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-Grdn_2-2\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-47\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e In Ungaro's obituary, \u003ci\u003eThe Guardian\u003c\/i\u003e notes that his 30 years without outside investment ending in 1996 made him \"the last independent in Paris\":\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-:0_48-0\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLack of funding shaped his own business. In 1968, he added ready-to-wear, sold at first from his salon on the Avenue Montaigne, then distributed in the US and Japan, for a reliable revenue stream to help support his couture without pursuing the licensing deals that had become standard for couturiers. He profited only from what his house directly made, not from selling the name to producers whose output quality he could not control.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-:0_48-1\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn 1997, Ungaro, Ferragamo and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Bulgari\" title=\"Bulgari\"\u003eBulgari\u003c\/a\u003e created a new company: Emanuel Ungaro Parfums. The new perfumes to follow were \u003ci\u003eFleur de Diva\u003c\/i\u003e (1997), \u003ci\u003eDesnuda\u003c\/i\u003e (2001) and \u003ci\u003eApparition\u003c\/i\u003e (2004).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Giambattista_Valli\" title=\"Giambattista Valli\"\u003eGiambattista Valli\u003c\/a\u003e worked as Creative Director for Ungaro from 1998 to 2004. \u003csup id=\"cite_ref-49\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003eUngaro credited Valli with revitalizing the house, and named him as his successor.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-50\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e In a tribute after Ungaro's death, Valli was quoted by \u003ci\u003eVogue\u003c\/i\u003e as saying \"He was one of the big masters of haute couture, with a very personal kind of universe.... We worked in parallel a lot, he on the haute couture, and me on the ready-to-wear. For seven years I learned a lot from him. He was not listening to critics, just his own dreams and obsessions.\"\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-51\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn 2005, Ungaro retired and sold the label to internet entrepreneur Asim Abdullah for US$84 million.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-Vogue_1-3\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-Ungaro_52-0\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-Grdn_2-3\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the sale, the label languished with a revolving door of designers, the last of which, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Esteban_Cortazar\" class=\"mw-redirect\" title=\"Esteban Cortazar\"\u003eEsteban Cortazar\u003c\/a\u003e, who was appointed in 2007, was fired two years later after his refusal to work with actress \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lindsay_Lohan\" title=\"Lindsay Lohan\"\u003eLindsay Lohan\u003c\/a\u003e. Subsequently, Lohan was appointed Artistic Director, working with new head designer \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Estrella_Archs\" title=\"Estrella Archs\"\u003eEstrella Archs\u003c\/a\u003e, who was hired hastily to replace Cortazar. The introduction of Lohan, which was meant to give the label publicity, was received with shock and dismay in \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Paris_Fashion_Week\" title=\"Paris Fashion Week\"\u003eParis Fashion Week\u003c\/a\u003e 2009.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-nytimes.com_53-0\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e In 2010, during Paris Fashion Week, Lindsay Lohan announced that she was no longer working for or with Ungaro, and that she could not comment on the matter because of legal issues. Her work was heavily criticized\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-54\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e and soon after the fashion house was looking for a buyer.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-55\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn 2009, the label had sales of about $200 million from fragrance and less-expensive lines sold in Asia, but the runway collection has been losing money for years.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-nytimes.com_53-1\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e In April 2010, it was announced that Archs had been dismissed and British designer \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Giles_Deacon\" title=\"Giles Deacon\"\u003eGiles Deacon\u003c\/a\u003e would be taking over as creative director.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-Ungaro_52-1\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-56\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn 2012, the Italian company \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/w\/index.php?title=Aeffe\u0026amp;action=edit\u0026amp;redlink=1\" class=\"new\" title=\"Aeffe (page does not exist)\"\u003eAeffe\u003c\/a\u003e took over the production and distribution of Ungaro products.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-57\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e In September 2012, Fausto Puglisi was named creative director of Ungaro, and the brand announced its comeback to the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Paris_Fashion_Week\" title=\"Paris Fashion Week\"\u003eParis Fashion Week\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-58\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e In 2015, Ungaro launched a \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Smart_device\" title=\"Smart device\"\u003esmart\u003c\/a\u003e ring that, connected to a phone, dimly lights up when a selected few contacts call.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-59\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e In March 2017, Fausto Puglisi was replaced by Marco Colagrossi (formerly women's wear at \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Giorgio_Armani\" title=\"Giorgio Armani\"\u003eGiorgio Armani\u003c\/a\u003e) as creative director of Ungaro.\u003csup id=\"cite_ref-60\" class=\"reference\"\u003e\u003c\/sup\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSource: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Emanuel_Ungaro\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWikipedia\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c!----\u003e","products":[],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0670\/3572\/6137\/collections\/841A0EB4-0D71-4C41-9B5A-5EBDA29D72AC.jpg?v=1716748236","url":"https:\/\/talkaboutlux.gr\/en\/collections\/ungaro.oembed","provider":"Talk About Lux","version":"1.0","type":"link"}